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2018 07-19 > Gaspe


Jeff und Joe sind durchaus kompromissbereite Frühaufsteher, doch ab 6:30 h sind sie kaum mehr zu halten. So auch heute, einem wunderschönen Tag welcher uns mit blauem Himmel, angenehmer Temperatur und mit einer frischen Atlanikbrise begrüsst. Für uns beginnt das Programm mit einem währschaften kanadischen Frühstück: Spiegel- oder Rührei, Speck, Bratkartoffeln und Toasts mit Marmelade. Dazu gibt es Filterkaffee und Wasser “free refill”. Wir profitieren ausgiebig, beladen unsere Fahrräder, füllen unsere Wasserflaschen und los geht’s.

Die Fahrt beginnt mit einer langen Steigung welche uns von der Küste auf einen Hügelzug bringt. Zuerst erinnern uns die Beinmuskeln an die gestrigen 1’485 Hm, doch bald sind wir aufgewärmt und schaffen den Aufstieg in guter Form. Oben meint Joe: “A piece of cake compared to yesterday”. Dann folgt eine rassige Abfahrt zurück zur Küste. Dort beginnt das Spiel von Aufstieg und Abfahrt von neuem. Nach 11 km kommen wir zur Bucht L’Anse-au-Griffon. Dort spricht uns Jean von seinem, mit allerlei Gerümpel verzierten Hausplatz an. Nach einer Zusammenfassung seiner Lebensgeschichte berichtet er uns, dass das Meer hier überfischt sei und die hiesige Crevettenfabrik kaum mehr genügend Nachschub erhalte. Es werde zu früh, bevor die Crevetten reif seien, geerntet. Nach einer Weile schaut er uns eindringlich an, hebt er den Daumen, meint “vous êtes de bons gars” und wünscht uns gute Fahrt. Wir schwenken von der Route 132 auf den Veloweg ein welcher uns durch den Parc national du Canada Forillon und Richtung Gaspé führt. Der Park ist eine mit Nadel- und Blatthölzern bewaldete Hügellandschaft. Die Abgeschiedenheit und die nur durch das Vogelgezwitscher unterbrochene Stille ist erholsam. Jeff zeigt uns einen dunklen Kothaufen und meint “bears!”. Als erfahrener Pfadfinder kennt er sich aus. Doch zu sehen bekommen wir den zotteligen Kumpel nicht. Vielleicht ist es ja auch besser so, denn in unseren Fahrradtaschen hat es so manche Leckereien welche den Bär mehr interessieren könnte als uns lieb wäre.

Bei Penouille kommen wir auf der Küstenstrasse 132 wieder in die Zivilisation zurück. Wir besuchen kurz Fort Ramsey welche im zweiten Weltkrieg die Bucht vor Invasoren schüzte. Nach 5 km entlang der Küste erreichen wir unser Ziel, Gaspé. Hier hat uns Jeff eine angenehme Unterkunft organisiert. Frischt geduscht bummeln wir durch die City und geniessen ein wohlverdientes, erfrischendes Bierchen.

English Translation

Jeff and Joe are early birds but ready to compromise from their desired 6:30 start. Today was a beautiful day which welcomes us with blue skies, pleasant temperature and a fresh Atlantic breeze. For us, the day begins with a hearty Canadian breakfast: fried or scrambled eggs, bacon, fried potatoes and toast with jam. We enjoy filter coffee and water, both with "free refills". We benefit extensively from our hearty breakfast, load our bikes, fill our water bottles and off we go.

The journey begins with a long climb which brings us inland from the coast. First, the leg muscles remind us of yesterday's 1,485 meters of climbing, but soon we are warmed up and make the ascent in good shape.  At the top, Joe says "A piece of cake compared too yesterday". Then a racy descent back to the coast follows. There, the climbs start again. After 11 km we arrive at the bay L'Anse-au-Griffon. Rather that cycling around the park, we chose to take a short cut thru the park on a bike trail.  At the trail’s entrance we met Jean who talks with us over a background of all sorts of junk decorating his house and yard. After a summary of his life story, Jean tells us that the sea is over-fished and the local shrimp factory hardly receives enough supplies to operate. The sea is harvested too early, before the shrimp are ripe. After a while Jean looks at us urgently, he raises his thumb, says "vous êtes de bons gars" and wishes us a good trip. The bike path leads us through the Parc National du Canada Forillon in the direction of the town of Gaspé. The park is a hilly landscape planted with conifers and foliage. The seclusion and the silence was only interrupted by the birdsong, and is restful. Jeff shows us a dark stink and says "bears!". As an experienced boy scout, he knows his way around. But we do not get to see the shaggy buddy. Maybe its better that way, because in our bike bags there are some treats that could interest the bear more than we would like.

At Penouille we return to civilization and get back on coast road 132 were we first stop at Fort Ramsay. The Fort was built in 1940 to protect the bay from a German invasion.  After another 5 km along the bay we reached our destination, Gaspé. Here Jeff arranged a pleasant accommodation.  We quickly showered and then strolled through the city where we enjoyed a well-deserved refreshing beer.



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